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Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 10:03 pm Post subject: Drywasher Advice Needed
Hi,
I picked up an old used Keene puffer dry washer that works with a drawstring instead of a crank. It cost me about $250 with shipping. I've detected and highbanked, but never have dry washed anywhere. I did try to do some research but still have a variety of questions, don't feel you have to answer every question. I'll keep doing research and I know most of my learning will come from trial and error. I wanted to get a little more advice before I set out. I do know it can only work well with bone dry material.
Some of my questions are,
1. Would it be wise to classify dirt by 1/2 inch, 1/4 inch, and then 1/8 inch into a 5 gallon bucket before running it through? Or would it be all right to classify at only 1/4 inch?
2. If I found a spot for running material, are there actually pre-made plans out there to convert this type of dry washer to a battery run or vac-pac run unit? I imagine you would have to hook up a fan underneath and remove the bellows. I think I heard you can have a battery run puffer that would not require putting in a fan.
3-5. Can anyone confirm that 15 degrees is about the right angle for a riffle tray? I assume you only empty the tray once the riffles start to clog? Could you expect to run a square yard a day on a puffer dry washer? Any comments are appreciated.
Rex _________________ If first you don't succeed...
Rex,you can take a 12 volt windsheld wiper motor(auto wrecking yard) ande motorize it. It's too much hassle to make a blower unit out of it, when for approx. 50.00 more you can buy a Thompson blower drywasher. If you have a 1/2 screen on top of your hopper , shovel directly into it, and rerun your tailings once. Angle will vary on material, sample(pan) once in a while. Hendo
Thanks for the reply, and the classifying information. Sounds like the classifying will be significantly less work than I originally had feared. I will be sure to try to use youtube to my advantage by observing some drywashing. I didn't realize you could adjust the riffle angle depending on the dryness and the size of the material. Yes, I plan to run the detector over tailings, even though nuggets are rather rare in the area, still it seems you can never absolutely say never with gold, just sometimes almost never.
Hendo,
Thanks for your reply as well, the window shield wiper motor sounds like a good idea. I think I very vaguely remember reading about someone doing that on a forum but I had forgotten that was possible. I'll have to see if I can figure that out, I imagine those are relatively cheap. I looked at Thompson since I ran across a recommendation for them and I think with shipping it may run a little more, it's about $450 with shipping. I also looked at PackWasher drywashers, Gold Buddy, as well as plans to build your own drywasher. I settled on the used puffer since I will initially just be doing some sampling and trying to find a decent spot for maybe a more permanent set up. _________________ If first you don't succeed...
Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 9:23 pm Post subject: DRYWASHER TIPS
rEX: I have used both a blower and a bellows type. don't bother with classifying apart from the expanded metal used on top of the loading chute. If you want to change rough grades into the tray, simply buy a larger or smaller type of expanded metal, cut into the size that will fit onto the hopper. 1/2" is the norm, though I prefer 3/4" raised on the bellows type.
What I would look into adding though, is a regulated feed tray/hopper. That would include an adjustable gate to meter out feed material into the riffle tray.
Another 'standard' is the average 15 degree slope, or 1 inch fall per foot of tray. actually that is the slant for a sluice, drywashers are more slope than that. the idea is to set the riffle tray up so that the optimum blower/engine speed, and the slope of the tray allows a somewhat less than moderate trickle off the end. don't forget to run material twice where possible, though the 2nd time for drywashing is easier as there is more dirt and less rocks.
The final observation is to work the machine in a way that you can shovel a bit, lean on the shovel a bit and rest, and shovel some more dirt into the feed hopper, and lean a bit. let the rig do the work, and you, a whole lot less work (not including the pick and shovel part).
As for the pick and shovel part, I modified a sears (Poulan) rototiller by welding 1/2 inch rebar onto the tines, which helps to mill up the clods and pop out the larger rocks. It's debatable to use the rototiller in undisturbed ground as the tight clay layers and tight encased rocks will be really hard on the tiller. The tradeoff would be to use an electric jackhammer or hilti to break up the hardpan, including cracking the stuff, THEN use the tiller to mill to rough into easier to shovel and manage rough.
Obviously, it helps to have an extra hand along for the 'ride'. But if sucker (nobody) is game, try to divide the hour into thirds. One third for breaking up the rough, another to run the drywasher, and another to clean out the concentrates, and refuel/reset the rig.
Useful additional junk to have on hand:
motor oil; starting fluid; belts and hoses; spark plugs; gas treatment; wd 40, lantern mantles and gasoline; rig gasoline or mix; gas vac and nozzle assortment; air filters for rig, gas pac, and operator; ice chest and cool or cold liquid refreshments; jerky or sunflower seeds (keep the mouth busy); sockets and adjustable wrenches; farm jack; tire snot; whisk broom; loupe or magnifying glass; headlight for your head inorder to work on stuff or the dig at night; 1st aid kit; toilet paper; spare lortabs; #5 or #6 rebar; slide post hammer; matches; lantern hangs; a gun perhaps; a cellphone; wheelbarrow maybe; lots of five gallon buckets; treats for any cop you may come across or cross; and a decent sleeping bag.
Some people take a spiral pan out with them, but since running over mine, and not enough free cash to get another one, I wait until I get home to do the cleanup.
when dumping the concentrates out of the riffle tray (I clean up after running 20-40 minutes), I found that a south american batea (looks sort of like an inverted steel chinaman's hat) is usually wide enough to the tray spill, and slightly rotating it while dumping the contents into a buckets, allows for a tidy catchall. The tailings, after doing a cleanup, usually serve as good garden fill, UNLESS there is lead or mercury in the mining area.
I was going to make this commentary simple but it's as simple as I can get it. _________________ STUDY, And be FREE from the BONDS of IGNORANCE!
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:12 pm Post subject: Re: DRYWASHER TIPS
rehab wrote:
rEX: I have used both a blower and a bellows type. don't bother with classifying apart from the expanded metal used on top of the loading chute. If you want to change rough grades into the tray, simply buy a larger or smaller type of expanded metal, cut into the size that will fit onto the hopper. 1/2" is the norm, though I prefer 3/4" raised on the bellows type.
What I would look into adding though, is a regulated feed tray/hopper. That would include an adjustable gate to meter out feed material into the riffle tray.
Another 'standard' is the average 15 degree slope, or 1 inch fall per foot of tray. actually that is the slant for a sluice, drywashers are more slope than that. the idea is to set the riffle tray up so that the optimum blower/engine speed, and the slope of the tray allows a somewhat less than moderate trickle off the end. don't forget to run material twice where possible, though the 2nd time for drywashing is easier as there is more dirt and less rocks.
The final observation is to work the machine in a way that you can shovel a bit, lean on the shovel a bit and rest, and shovel some more dirt into the feed hopper, and lean a bit. let the rig do the work, and you, a whole lot less work (not including the pick and shovel part).
As for the pick and shovel part, I modified a sears (Poulan) rototiller by welding 1/2 inch rebar onto the tines, which helps to mill up the clods and pop out the larger rocks. It's debatable to use the rototiller in undisturbed ground as the tight clay layers and tight encased rocks will be really hard on the tiller. The tradeoff would be to use an electric jackhammer or hilti to break up the hardpan, including cracking the stuff, THEN use the tiller to mill to rough into easier to shovel and manage rough.
Obviously, it helps to have an extra hand along for the 'ride'. But if sucker (nobody) is game, try to divide the hour into thirds. One third for breaking up the rough, another to run the drywasher, and another to clean out the concentrates, and refuel/reset the rig.
Useful additional junk to have on hand:
motor oil; starting fluid; belts and hoses; spark plugs; gas treatment; wd 40, lantern mantles and gasoline; rig gasoline or mix; gas vac and nozzle assortment; air filters for rig, gas pac, and operator; ice chest and cool or cold liquid refreshments; jerky or sunflower seeds (keep the mouth busy); sockets and adjustable wrenches; farm jack; tire snot; whisk broom; loupe or magnifying glass; headlight for your head inorder to work on stuff or the dig at night; 1st aid kit; toilet paper; spare lortabs; #5 or #6 rebar; slide post hammer; matches; lantern hangs; a gun perhaps; a cellphone; wheelbarrow maybe; lots of five gallon buckets; treats for any cop you may come across or cross; and a decent sleeping bag.
Some people take a spiral pan out with them, but since running over mine, and not enough free cash to get another one, I wait until I get home to do the cleanup.
when dumping the concentrates out of the riffle tray (I clean up after running 20-40 minutes), I found that a south american batea (looks sort of like an inverted steel chinaman's hat) is usually wide enough to the tray spill, and slightly rotating it while dumping the contents into a buckets, allows for a tidy catchall. The tailings, after doing a cleanup, usually serve as good garden fill, UNLESS there is lead or mercury in the mining area.
I was going to make this commentary simple but it's as simple as I can get it.
Charlie,
Thanks for your tips and assessment, lots of good practical information there. Just a side note, I'm also thinking of maybe eventually making a bigger drywasher to move more material. I picked up some plans, felt I couldn't go wrong for $6, and they looks halfway decent, came with a CD and a pdf with drawings and instructions.
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the tray spill, and slightly rotating it while dumping the contents into a buckets, allows for a tidy catchall. The tailings, after doing a cleanup, usually serve as good garden fill, UNLESS there is lead or mercury in the mining area.